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Exfoliation Explained: AHAs, BHAs, and Enzymes Demystified

Here’s a clear, evidence-minded guide to exfoliation explained: ahas, bhas, and enzymes demystified. We’ll keep it practical, gentle, and easy to apply.

Exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells from the surface. It keeps skin smooth and helps other products penetrate. There are three main types : AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) , BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) , and enzymatic exfoliants .

Each works differently: Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Water-soluble acids (like glycolic, lactic, citric acids) derived from fruits or milk . AHAs gently dissolve the “glue” between surface skin cells. They exfoliate the outer epidermis , revealing fresher skin and boosting hydration.

AHAs are great for smoothing fine lines, dullness, and uneven tone . Who benefits? Those with normal to dry or sun-damaged skin.

Because they act on the surface, AHAs improve texture and stimulate collagen (glycolic especially) . Key point: AHAs increase sun sensitivity, so always use SPF. Common examples: glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from milk), mandelic (almonds), mandelic (apples), and phytic acid.

Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Oil-soluble acids like salicylic acid (derived from willow bark) . BHAs can penetrate into clogged pores filled with sebum. They dissolve oil plugs and exfoliate inside pores, making them ideal for acne-prone or oily skin .

BHAs are also anti-inflammatory, so they can reduce redness and help with rosacea or acne breakouts . They are gentler than strong AHAs for daily use and don’t increase sun sensitivity as much. Who benefits?

Those with oily, acneic, or combination skin. Typical BHA products are 1–2% salicylic acid cleansers, toners, or leave-on treatments. Enzymatic Exfoliants: These are proteolytic (protein-breaking) enzymes from fruits like papaya (papain) or pineapple (bromelain) .

Enzymes break down keratin protein in dead cells, gently “dissolving” surface flakes. They tend to be milder and work over a range of pH, making them good for sensitive skin . Enzyme exfoliants are often found in masks or cleansers.

Who benefits? Those with delicate or irritated skin that can’t tolerate acids or scrubs. They won’t work as fast as acids, but they brighten and soften with minimal irritation . (Note: People with a pineapple/papaya allergy should avoid these.) • 32

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How to Choose & Use: Think of exfoliants like tools – pick the right one for your skin type and goals: Texture & Tone: For general brightening and fine lines (especially on dry or mature skin), try an AHA lotion or peel once or twice a week. Start with a lower % (like 5–10% lactic acid). Acne and Pores: For blackheads or clogged pores, use a BHA (salicylic acid) product 1–3 times a week.

A BHA toner or serum can even be used daily if tolerated. Gentle Maintenance: For sensitive or irritated skin, try an enzyme mask (papaya or pumpkin enzyme) once a week to slough off dead cells without harsh chemicals . Frequency: Don’t over-exfoliate.

Beginners should start slow (once a week) and observe. Overdoing acids can cause redness and dryness. As a rule, AHAs are best in the evening (and always with next- day sunscreen), while a light BHA cleanser could be done in the AM or PM.

Layering: Always apply exfoliating acids to clean skin, before heavier creams. For example: Cleanser → AHA/BHA product → hydrating serum → moisturizer → SPF. Avoid using multiple exfoliants on the same day (e.g., don’t do a scrubbing mask after a strong AHA peel).

Enzymes vs. Acids vs. Scrubs: Enzymes are gentler but slower-acting.

AHAs/BHAs are more potent and well-studied for uneven tone and acne . Physical scrubs (sugar/granules) can irritate and create microtears; most dermatologists recommend chemical exfoliation instead for better results and less risk. By choosing the right type and frequency, exfoliation keeps skin glowing and primes it to absorb treatments better .

Remember to always follow with moisturizing and sun protection to maintain skin health.

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